Monday, 1 October 2012

Small Update

Hello All.

Been a while posting but it does not mean i have not been working hard. Was busy running another year of guardcon 40k and it work out a very good weekend. I have been busy painting a mix of things, my eldar my rogue traders and my base for my storm talon.

Only pics i have today are of some addons for the eldar. I am adding in 3 warphunters and bout a lynx for some Apoc games.

The Lynx does not look much bigger than a falcon body but i think once its done it should do.

Enjoy the pics and i will try and get some more pics up of what i have been doing soon.

Monday, 20 August 2012

Storm Talon Complete + Drop Pod

Hello All.

Posting today to show my pics of my Completed Storm Talon, and also i drop pod i have done. Both where done with Salt weathering and are looking nice and fucked up at the same time.


Thursday, 9 August 2012

How to detail your salt weathering.

How to do battle damage with Salt!

Part 2
Gear Needed:
-          Rust weathering powder
-          Stiff Brush (not a good one)
-          Fine detail brush
-          Detail brush
-          Water and a mixing tub (for paint)
-          Black Wash
-          GW Codex Gray or other brand
-          Flat clear spray

Step – 01
Get a small clump of the weathering powder and put it into your mixing tub. Now add one or two drops of water, you want the powder to become like a watered down paint and not like clumps of mud. Now get a detail brush and paint the rust paint we just made into the areas you want to rust up. This will be on areas that would get heavily worn or around the battle damage you have just made. But when painting this on you want to paint a vertical line and then drag the paint down like you would do a wash. We are doing this to show where it has rained and dripped and stained that paint. This is what it should look like. 

Step – 02
Now over the rust you have just painted on you want to pull your finger down wards a few times to rub in the power and make it more real. . If you can’t get to some areas with your finger this is where your stuff brush comes in. Once you have most of the rust rubbed down you can now use the powder on your thumb to detail other areas it you want. Hint: it’s good on the edges like around the window frame as shown. Any errors you have made you can wash off with some nail varnish and an ear bud. As the model is already got its clear coat one from the first tutorial you won’t damage any of your paint. Once happy give the model a spray of the clear coat if you don’t do this step the powders won’t stick and will rub off and destroy all your work. 

Step – 03
Now we want to get the codex gray paint and mix about 50/50 with water. Get a very small detail brush this will work the best for this step. Now on all the damage we have done we want to give it a little depth on the larger bits of damage you want to paint a thin gray line only at the bottom of the damage. For the odd shaped ones you can be creative but you want to paint the gray on vertical lines to give it a shadow like look. I find it best to just leave the smaller damage chips as they are. 

Step – 04
Now we are complete for the damage detailing, at this point on I will just be showing you how the completed body ended out looking. In this stage it got my black wash and filled in the recesses and detail I wanted to bring out. 

Step – 05
In this part I did the standard detail you would paint the lights on the front and the eagle on the front and the antennas. 

And here you have a completed model well not fully for me I now need to do all these steps again for the rest of the model. This would take about 4-6 to get to this point with drying times it’s a quick and easy way to make something look more real and needs very little skill. I don’t count myself as an expert just an average painter who struggles just as much as the rest.    

Saturday, 4 August 2012

Warrior Alien

I did this a few years back and very few have seen this. Its 1/6ths scale it was bought from ebay and forgot the cost around $100. If you know me i am quite in love with the alien films and always trying to find models as true to the movies as possible this is quite hard. As most of the models out there are just action fingers and are over priced crap.

Titan is Finished!!!!!

 Here it is guys with it base complete this thing looks the shit. I am really happy with the out come could not ask for anything more from myself. The base got made by one of the most extreme base makers i know and i love it, well worth the wait.

Monday, 30 July 2012

How to do battle damage with Salt!

Gear Needed:

  • -          A Model
  • -          Model Primer
  • -          Matt Spray
  • -          Base Coat (can be spray can or done with air brush)
  • -          Hair Spray (try not to get wet look or glossy)
  • -          Rock Salt
  • -          A container
  • -          Tooth Brush (kids ones I find better and smaller)

Step – 01

Make sure your model is made and all flash removed and mold lines. I recommend trying to do the model in parts like shown to get a better end result. 

Step – 02

Primer the model this can be any color you wish depending on your main color. But remember this will be showing though in the end so you want it to look like a primer color. Just like when get chip on your car and you see the gray primer under that this is the effect you are going for. You could also add in an extra step here and also lightly spray a rust color over the top of the primer to make it look like it has start rusting to. Just remember to do a very light mist you still want to see mostly primer. 

Step – 03

While we wait for the primer to dry get out your rock salt and container. I prefer the rock salt that comes with the grinder bit on the top and this is why. You don’t want the salt all the same damage to paint is not consistent. So you want a mix the normal size rock salt with some finer rock salt. About 50/50 mix is nice, use the grinder on the salt to make some random smaller sizes and them mix in some normal size salt. If you don’t have a grinder on the salt container you can just crush it with something.


Step – 04

For this step the amount of salt you want to put on is up to you. First we spray the model with the hair spray do a nice even coat so the model goes all glossy. Don’t overdo it as it will run and affect the end result. Now quickly before it dry’s sprinkle your salt mix all over it or where you want the damage to show. Once that is done just give it a light shake to get any really lose bits off.


Step – 05

Easy step now once the hair spray had dried spray the whole model with your base color. Note that if you get the wrong hair spray it may not dry and stay glossy and sticky we don’t want this. Make sure you use hair spray that does not say wet look or glossy.

Step – 06

Once your base color is dry get your tooth brush and run a skink full of just warm water put your model in the water and scrub all the salt off. You need to make sure it’s wet or the salt won’t come off. Don’t worry if you can’t get all the small little bits off as this adds to the effect.


Step – 07

Once you have dried out the model from taking a swim just look over it and make sure you have not missed any big bits of salt and you don’t have white powdering on the model. This is salt left on the model give it another wash and scrub. Once happy with model you want to seal all that work you have just done in, give the whole model a good coat of Matt varnish and you are done.

End of part one

Next how to detail your salt damage.